Finishing my basement

For stuff that is general.
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Cakedaddy
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Post by Cakedaddy »

When I redo my room(s), I'm installing switches like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1....2995030

I like the built in dimmer. That way, you can turn the lighting down, instead of 'off' if you want it darker for gaming/working/whatever.
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Cakedaddy
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Post by Cakedaddy »

Oh, also, make sure you have access to your splice boxes. Don't bury them under the drywall. One, it's against code, two, if you need to repair/add/upgrade/change, you won't have to try to remember where it was and cut your wall.
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Post by GORDON »

Cakedaddy wrote:Oh, also, make sure you have access to your splice boxes. Don't bury them under the drywall. One, it's against code, two, if you need to repair/add/upgrade/change, you won't have to try to remember where it was and cut your wall.
Junction box is in the ceiling, where it will be drop-ceilinged. Any other splices are in the boxes attached to the recessed lighting. I have half a notion to attach another recessed-lighting fixture in the opposite corner of the room, but if I decide to do that I can just run a new line from the existing light at the end of that run. I can do that any time after the room is done.

No other splices.
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Post by GORDON »

First 4 sheets of drywall went up today... pics later. Thanks to Unk for the extra hands.

Had a sudden horrible thought today... I never tested that HDMI cable, and I have heard of some of them being bad out-of-the-box.

If I enclose it in drywall and it doesn't work, I won't have any way to run a new one on the path it goes in.

This bothers me.

Anyway, I haven't updated the running tally of costs, lately:

New drill bits and electrical odds-and-ends for finishing the electrical portion: $35.
Four sheet of drywall: $35.

Running tally: $1200.




Edited By GORDON on 1332511124
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Post by GORDON »

GORDON wrote:Had a sudden horrible thought today... I never tested that HDMI cable, and I have heard of some of them being bad out-of-the-box.

If I enclose it in drywall and it doesn't work, I won't have any way to run a new one on the path it goes in.
I wonder if I can retrofit some small conduit through the wall, just big enough for the cable.
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Post by GORDON »

Here are the pics, as promised. Only hung 4 sheets, as I didn't have the energy for more, that day.

East wall, looking east.
Image

NE corner.
Image

NW corner, where my desk will be.
Image

Looking toward SW corner.
Image

The more I think about it, the more I am thinking of running conduit for that HDMI line, in case of it needing replacement. I can get all the conduit for about $20.

Plus conduit is cool.




Edited By GORDON on 1332527588
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Cakedaddy
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Post by Cakedaddy »

I would drill bigger holes so I could use the broken HDMI as a pull string and pull the new cable. It will be hard to find flex conduit big enough, and you pay a premium for larger diameters. And you are still looking at 1" at least conduit which won't work well if you are making any 90 degree turns around corners.

It's gonna have to be thick because of the ends, and those little round black things that are near the ends. And when you bend conduit, the bend loses some diameter. So, if it's JUST big enough straight, it won't be big enough after you bend it. Even a prebent 90 has a thinner inner diameter.

I think redrilling the holes a little bigger, and angle the hole to follow the cable path (where the cable drops down, angle the hole so it's at a 45 degree angle) would allow you to pull the new cable with the old one.
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Cakedaddy
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Post by Cakedaddy »

OH, one thing I've learned about doing drywall. . . . there's no such thing as using too many screws. The more you use, the longer it will last without cracking/sagging. My first walls, I didn't use enough screws. The seams would separate and crack. I had to add screws and remud. It hasn't cracked again since. So, use more screws. Then add a few more. And don't skip the middle section. I may be over screwing now. . . but hey, who doesn't like to screw?

I only mention this because counting the screws I can see in your pictures, that's about how many I used on my first rebuilt wall. And it cracked.




Edited By Cakedaddy on 1332546414
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Post by GORDON »

Cakedaddy wrote:I only mention this because counting the screws I can see in your pictures, that's about how many I used on my first rebuilt wall. And it cracked.
What you see is just enough screws to keep it on the wall.... there will be lots more screws before I mud.

And I bet I can get 1.25" rigid conduit in those studs. They aren't load bearing, so it doesn't matter too much if there is a big weak point where I drill a hole for conduit.
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Post by Cakedaddy »

You'll be paying a few dollars per foot for it though. If you find it cheaper, post the link. Also, make sure you secure the SHIT out of it. You probably know, flex ain't the easiest to fish, let alone when it's not secure and it bunches up. I am not a fan of flex.
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Post by GORDON »

Cakedaddy wrote:You'll be paying a few dollars per foot for it though. If you find it cheaper, post the link. Also, make sure you secure the SHIT out of it. You probably know, flex ain't the easiest to fish, let alone when it's not secure and it bunches up. I am not a fan of flex.
Menard's has 8-10 foot sections for about $4 each.

Or maybe it was Home Depot.
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Post by GORDON »

I didn't mean Rigid conduit, I meant rigid, not flexible.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1....d=10051
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Post by Cakedaddy »

OOhhhh PVC. WAY not code. I was going to ask how you were going to fit a 10' stick of conduit between your studs. Same thing applies with the bends being more narrow than the straight pieces.

And actually, as far as it being not code, I'm not really sure what rule you'd be breaking. You can't run high volt through PVC in the walls. But the rules for low volt are so. . . nonexistent that I don't know it's against code. You are just installing a cable chase. Not that it matters to you. :-)
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Post by GORDON »

Welp, that wall/NE corner is done.

Image

Drywall-is-up-done, I mean.

4 more sheets of drywall, $35.

Running tally: $1235
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Post by Cakedaddy »

Now comes the 4 to 6 weeks of mudding. At least that's how long I spend doing it. It's just never perfect/smooth enough.
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Post by GORDON »

Going to do do that mud/primer mixture idea and see how it works, to add more texture and cover up oopses.
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Post by GORDON »

Ran some conduit through the half-wall as a cable chase. Had the length of PVC already, and just bought the elbow for the corner. No big whoop. If I ever need to replace that HDMI cable, I will at least have a nice, smooth pipe to get it around that corner. I should be fine, at that point.

Image

Now I just need help getting more drywall into the basement. Volunteers?
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Post by GORDON »

Still don't have any more drywall so I decided to just finish running conduit to my 2 HDMI access points.


The gap in the conduit is due to the metal wall-supporting beam being in the way. Can't run conduit right there, there's no room.
Image

This is where the HDMI and live electrical used to cross. Now there's a nice conduit separator.
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And this is where my desk will be. I decided to make the wall removable under my desk. One won't be able to see it unless they crawl under, and then I can have access to a lot or wiring and conduit and stuff in case I even need to add more lines.
Image

Thinking I am going to bug Unk tomorrow to go pick up some drywall with me.
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Post by GORDON »

Yay, 4 more sheets of drywall in the basement.

Running tally: $1280.
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Post by GORDON »

Yes! The thread is being updated!

Those 4 sheets of drywall mentioned above have finally been touched. School is in, summer projects (the ones I had time to get to) are winding down, and I finally have time to get back in the basement. The plan is to have the walls finished before Christmas, and move my existing computer desk down there. This will free up space in our so-called "family room."

Anyway, did this:

Image

Image

Finished drywalling the west wall, where that longish conduit was installed to carry the HDMI cable. So that's done. Tomorrow I hope to finish the south wall, and then assess how much more drywall I will need to finish that phase. And then.... drywall mud and sanding. Then the paint. And I have the perfect color in mind...
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