Fruit Cultivation

For the self-sufficiency stuff that you do, or want to discuss
GORDON
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Post by GORDON »

So you're collecting water on the uphill side of the house, making a stream around the house , and draining it on the downhill side?
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Troy
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Post by Troy »

GORDON wrote: So you're collecting water on the uphill side of the house, making a stream around the house , and draining it on the downhill side?
Exactly. Diverting the stream of water away from the house/foundation.

Significantly improved drainage in the area around the spring drain as well. The ground used to puddle and be soggy. It was killing vegetation. Even with the rains it was much improved this am.
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Post by GORDON »

Interesting. I've never lived in a house on actively running water, before.
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Troy
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Post by Troy »

GORDON wrote: Interesting. I've never lived in a house on actively running water, before.
I didn't know much about any of this before I started reading the literature and talking to drainage experts. Most useful to me was a short course called "Principles of Exterior Drainage"
Drainage Considerations
There are three basic forms of drainage control on a steep slope: above ground drainage diversion above the cut slope area; sub-surface drainage within the slope; and pipe
drainage from within the steep slope, primarily for draining active seepage such as springs.

By far the most beneficial and effective of these drainage techniques is the entrapment of surface water above the steep slope and the transportation of it to a safe area. Entrapment of up slope waters can be accomplished through a number of different drainage methodologies, including berming, use of concrete-lined or grasslined ditches. Entrapment water can thereafter be transported to a point away from the slope and safely released.

A secondary, and overall less effective method of entrapping and diverting drainage water on the slope is the use of sub-surface interception ditches parallel to the contours
of the slope. Improvements have been made, however, through the use of geo-textile fabrics and gravel envelope drains to make sure that if these systems have to be relied
upon that they have a more predictable life.

Lastly, rigid perforated pipe can be installed in seepage areas on a slope, especially in any area that perpetually weeps water, and can be drained out beyond the toe of the
slope to keep water from degrading the hillside. These rigid pipes are buried into the slope perpendicular to its face.

Many times all three of these methodologies are utilized on one project.
From: https://www.ndspro.com/PDFs/Tech-Spec-G ... ainage.pdf
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Post by GORDON »

Surreptitiously install a vast network of thermal transfer pipes all over your particular hillside. Activate, and send the ground heat into.... somewhere diabolical. Under the house of an annoying neighbor, maybe. But otherwise, pull all of the heat out of your hillside, and freeze the water in its tracks creating a mysterious layer of permafrost 6 inches below ground level.
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Troy
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Post by Troy »

Fuck, I haven't gotten to that chapter yet.
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Post by Troy »

Broke ground on a french drain line headed up to meet the detention pond. Starting at low spot on property at street/fence and plan to dig a 18" trench and lay ~100 feet of 4" perforated triple wall with drain gravel and geo fabric. The water outlet to the street will be 6" pop-up for now.

The dwarves in Dwarf Fortress make that digging shit look easy. It isn't.

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Post by Troy »

About 160 feet of trench dug. Smoothing it out now so it has a constant slope, and pipe shopping tomorrow. We (I found some help) went right through a cracked retaining wall yesterday with a diamond saw to put the pipe through. Metal.
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Post by GORDON »

That is metal.
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Troy
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Post by Troy »

Here's our current main channel. Secondary channel is perpendicular to the left about 80 feet up.

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160 feet of smooth triple wall and fittings.
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Post by GORDON »

Heh, couldn't have just dug under the 2x12? ;) Had my septic tank replaced recently, and those maniacs dug under a 3' sidewalk, instead of cutting it and having to lay a new one.
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Post by Troy »

GORDON wrote: Heh, couldn't have just dug under the 2x12? ;) Had my septic tank replaced recently, and those maniacs dug under a 3' sidewalk, instead of cutting it and having to lay a new one.
Yeah, definitely could have. Post gravel + pipe though, my plan is to make the area above the wall a fern line, and the area below wall a dry creek. Seperate the two with a lot of large round river rock. The wood would have ruined the aesthetic :) We'll go back and make a new wood retaining wall as a phase 2 or 3.
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Post by Troy »

Busy Busy. Inlets and Basins arriving today and another load of drain rock too.

WIP pipe install
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Pipe structure all glued in
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Post by Leisher »

That's a heck of a project.
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Post by Troy »

Leisher wrote: That's a heck of a project.
Yeah, I knew it was a big one on paper but actually doing it is another story.

Hoping to be totally done Saturday or Sunday.
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Post by GORDON »

Trench it by hand?
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Post by Troy »

GORDON wrote: Trench it by hand?
40lb breaker with a trenching shovel bit. We broke one bit, but didn't have to pay for it luckily.

Found some weird stuff (cassette tapes, remains of a dog, grosser things, and some old no-permit pipes for the house that was on the old foundation in the back.
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Post by GORDON »

What's a 40 lb breaker?
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Post by Troy »

GORDON wrote: What's a 40 lb breaker?
Power tool - a demo hammer mostly used for concrete I believe. It's the one with a shovel attachment from the first picture. Heavy but did the job on the packed clay well enough.
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Post by Troy »

Outlet and Inlet install day.

Outlet to the street (probably will only open if we have a huge rain, the majority of the water should diffuse into the ground)
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Inlet for the path. 3 more to go.

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