How do you calculate how much UPS you need?
I mean, if the only thing plugged into it is a PC and you want to protect against power flickers, and the PC has a 500 watt power supply, does that mean you need a 500W UPS?
Stupid UPS question.
Link
For just blips, and just the PC, I don't think you need anything fancy. A buff computer will drain it quicker, but it's not a BFD. Most have software that'll shut down the PC when it senses the battery is a few minutes from draining.
Edited By Paul on 1143150836
For just blips, and just the PC, I don't think you need anything fancy. A buff computer will drain it quicker, but it's not a BFD. Most have software that'll shut down the PC when it senses the battery is a few minutes from draining.
Edited By Paul on 1143150836
500 watt power supply:
$79.99 new
$161.60 refurbished
$355.99 new
The price sure varies on those things!
Edited By Paul on 1143151698
$79.99 new
$161.60 refurbished
$355.99 new
The price sure varies on those things!
Edited By Paul on 1143151698
So, you're answering my question about a 500W PC requiring a 500W power supply to survive power flickers?
I don't need it to run longer than 90 seconds on batteries. I need it to not reboot my computer when the power flickers for .3 seconds.
Edited By GORDON on 1143151975
I don't need it to run longer than 90 seconds on batteries. I need it to not reboot my computer when the power flickers for .3 seconds.
Edited By GORDON on 1143151975
"Be bold, and mighty forces will come to your aid."
I *think* any standard UPS would work for power flickers.
If it were me, I'd get something like this. Seems pretty buff, and it's only $60 (postage paid!).
If it were me, I'd get something like this. Seems pretty buff, and it's only $60 (postage paid!).
Well, your system prolly doesn't even draw 500W. It's prolly in the 200-300 range.
That looks helpful.
These seem to list both.
A typical PF (power factor: Watts/VA) for some computers may be as low as 0.6, which means that if you record a drain of 100 Watts, you need a power source with a VA rating of 167. Some literature suggests that 0.7 may be a good conversion factor, but this will depend heavily on the specific equipment. Moreover, there's really no way to determine these numbers besides measuring them.
That looks helpful.
These seem to list both.
It's not me, it's someone else.
I have an off-brand one that I paid about $30 for that can't handle power flickers, and the only thing plugged into the "battery" plugs is the CPU.I *think* any standard UPS would work for power flickers.
I don't want to hook my new system up to that.
"Be bold, and mighty forces will come to your aid."
Deals at CompUSA they say
*EDIT*Go to the 10th post in the above thread*EDIT*
The deal I had a while ago appears to have died.
Edited By TheCatt on 1143160499
*EDIT*Go to the 10th post in the above thread*EDIT*
The deal I had a while ago appears to have died.
Edited By TheCatt on 1143160499
It's not me, it's someone else.
I have bought a few UPSs at Best Buy recently for cheap. I think for $30 you can get one that's way more than what your average PCs needs to stay active for 20 minutes, let alone a few seconds.
Plus, they're all guaranteed so you get cash if they cause damage by failing.
Plus, they're all guaranteed so you get cash if they cause damage by failing.
“Activism is a way for useless people to feel important, even if the consequences of their activism are counterproductive for those they claim to be helping and damaging to the fabric of society as a whole.” - Dr Thomas Sowell
The UPS you bought for me then I paid you for and then we made the trade in Moorhead City just died, 10 minutes ago.TheCatt wrote:Deals at CompUSA they say
*EDIT*Go to the 10th post in the above thread*EDIT*
The deal I had a while ago appears to have died.
I want my money back.
"Be bold, and mighty forces will come to your aid."